At the home, the three wires from the pole/green box transformer are connected through a wattmeter and then enter a main service panel that is grounded to a long copper rod driven into the ground or to the steel in a home’s foundation. The A-phase and B-phase wires that enter the main panel are connected through a main disconnect breaker, while the neutral wire is connected to a terminal referred to as the neutral bar or neutral bus. A ground bar also may be present within the main service panel. The ground bar is connected to the grounding rod or to the foundation’s steel supports. Within main service panels, the neutral bar and the ground bar are connected together (they act as one).
However, within subpanels (service panels that get their power from the main service panel but which are located some distance from the main service panel), the neutral and ground bars are not joined together. Instead, the subpanel’s ground bar receives a ground wire from the main service panel. Often the metal conduit that is used to transport the wires from the main service panel to the subpanel is used as the “ground wire.” However, for certain critical applications (e.g., computer and life-support systems), the ground wire probably will be included within the conduit. Also, if a subpanel is not located in the same building as the main panel, a new ground rod typically is used to ground the subpanel. Note that different regions within the United States may use different wiring protocols.
Within the main service panel, there are typically two bus bars into which circuit breaker modules are inserted. One of these bus bars is connected to the A-phase wire; the other bus bar is connected to the B-phase wire. To power a group of 120-V loads (e.g., upstairs lights and 120-V outlets), you throw the main breaker to the off position and then insert a single-pole breaker into one of the bus bars. (You can choose either the A-phase bus bar or the B-phase bus bar. The choice of which bus bar you use only becomes important when it comes to balancing the overall load-more on that in a second.) Next, you take a 120-V three-wire cable and connect the cable’s black (hot) wire to the breaker, connect the cable’s white (neutral) wire to the neutral bar, and connect the cable’s ground wire (green or bare) to the ground bar. You then run the cable to where the 120-V loads are located, connect the hot and neutral wires across the load, and fasten the ground wire to the case of the load (typically a ground screw is supplied on an outlet mounting or light figure for this purpose).
To power other 120-V loads that use their own breakers, you basically do the same thing you did in the last setup. However, to maximize the capacity of the main panel (or subpanel) to supply as much current as possible without overloading the main circuit breaker in the process, it is important to balance the number of loads connected to the A-phase breakers with the number of loads connected to the B-phase breakers.
This is referred to as balancing the load. Now, if you want to supply power to 240-V appliances (e.g., ovens, washers, etc.), you insert a double-pole breaker between the A-phase and B-phase bus bars in the main panel (or subpanel). Next, you take a 240-V three-wire cable and attach one of its hot wires to the A-phase terminal of the breaker and attach its other hot wire to the B-phase terminal of the breaker. The ground wire (green or bare) is connected to the ground bar. You then run the cable to where the 240-V loads are located and attach the wires to the corresponding terminals of the load (typically within a 240-V outlet). Also, 120-V/240-V appliances are wired in a similar manner, except you use a four wire cable that contains an additional neutral (white) wire that is joined at the neutral bar within the main panel (or subpanel). (As a practical note, you could use a four wire 120-V/240-V cable instead of a 240-V three-wire cable for 240-V applications- you would just leave the neutral wire alone in this case.)
As a note of caution, do not attempt home wiring unless you are sure of your abilities. If you feel that you are capable, just make sure to flip the main breaker off before you start work within the main service panel. When working on light fixtures, switches, and outlets that are connected to an individual breaker, tag that breaker with tape so that you do not mistakenly flip the wrong breaker when you go back to test your connections.